Lake Garda and the mystery of drowned fishes

In Italy, a lot of things take more time that I would like them to… Though I should already get used to it during my nearly two-year stay in Malta…

First, a friend of us who gave us a lift to Lake Garda (Lago di Garda: official page of Lago di Garda) was 45 minutes late, then we tried to refuel the car for 30 minutes, after that a brief toilet pause turned into a conversation over coffee and instead of 16: 30, we arrived at 19:00. Luckily, before sunset and fortunately in the right village, Peschiera di Garda (Peschiera del Garda: official website of Peschiera del Garda). At the beginning the plan was that, in order not to stray from the path, we would go to Brescia and from there we would take a train. I was so glad that we managed to bribe the driver with a big good chocolate bar with oranges, and she dropped us off near the highway, then we reached the town on foot.

Peschiera del Garda

Peschiera del Garda

Peschiera del Garda

The first thing that surprised us was a dead fish. Later it turned out that not only one but a whole lot of them. With our “pretending Italian” that sounded like Spanish with a singing accent we asked a roadside fisherman about the cause of this disturbing phenomenon, but he had no idea. Or maybe he had but did not want to share. Or maybe he was the part of conspiracy? It was difficult to say…

Dead fishes

The fishes floating belly-up almost discouraged us from swimming in the lake, but we managed to find a place where in the sight nothing dead was floating. For dinner, I ordered a vegetarian meal ... Ben was tempted to local fish paste. Until now he is alive. Ben is alive, I mean, not the fish… Later on I found out that this is a normal seasonal phenomenon and has not much to do with any toxins released to the water by any nasty factories. The details of the phenomena can be found in Italian under: http://www.larena.it/stories/Home/523684_i_pesci_morti_nessun_velenosolo_un_fenomeno_stagionale/?refresh_ce&scroll=40

What they are mainly saying is, that they don’t know exactly why the fishes are floating dead, but it is not the first time around this time of year and that the quality of water is checked and although there have been some changes, it is still under the legal limit. 

A place where we swam

The restaurant we found while walking (interlaced with press ups and sit-ups) was sensational - friendly staff, a very wide variety of meals (meat, fish, vegetarian and vegan options), and the food delicious. We were both surprised by the cooked - fried cauliflower with pumpkin mousse and roasted cherry tomatoes.

Vegan meal in the restaurant

Fair prices - considering, that:

• the quality and quantity of food was good,
• there was a pleasant atmosphere 
• it was placed on the shore of the lake, just a stone throw away from the water
• some of the income is spent on charity associated with animals, 
• this is the part of Italy where a lot of Germans and English are visiting and they, as stereotypes say, have loads of money.

For my cauliflower dish, a salad with cherry tomatoes and ricotta cheese, pasta with fish, a large bottle of water and the so-called "envelope" (service charge) we paid 28 euros (deducting 4 euros of the service charge and and 3 euros for water it is 10.50 euros per person for a  nice meal).

Pasta with fish

While going back to the campsite we encountered next two surprises: otters! and closed gate to the campsite. Otters, unfortunately, could not be photographed because it was too dark, but looked quite “chubby” – most probably because of the increased nutrition on easily available fishes:)

And the camping site gate, well – we jumped over it. We made use of the climbing lessons. On the campsite zero stress, no loud music, no screaming kids and drunken rowdy teenagers. Only the croaking of frogs and other sounds of nature.

Ben jumping over the gate

Seen animals: thousands (most of them – mosquitos and drunk insects with long legs and quite big wings)

Dead fishes: at least 60 (fishes)

Killed animals: a couple of mosquitos 

Drunk insect with long legs and big wings

In Peschiera di Garda you can actualy sleep on the beach. We discovered it walking along the lake at night. Close to where we saw the otters, were some people sleeping, someone was snoring, someone was still (or maybe already) fishing. So – it can be done. We booked a camping place, as it was supposed to rain. Well, it didn’t.

If it we haven’t had Verona in plans and already booked accommodation there, we would have stayed in this relaxing place, joined the snorers and the otters in their night activitiesJ  

The restaurant - Vecchio Mulino Beach Restaurant (official website with menu and pictures: http://www.vecchiomulinobeach.com/)

As to the restaurant, I discovered later at home, that Vecchio Mulino restaurant (at Passeggiata Lago Porto Bergamini, 37010 Peschiera del Garda, Italy) that we accidently ate our delicious dinner at, is one of the best restaurants around Peschiera di Garda (reviews on tripadvisor written by 380). How lucky we were:) As it is quite unusual that a nice view comes with delicious food, with competent and friendly service and a very pleasant atmosphere of the place, accompanied by humanitarian prices:)

The restaurant had also a wide range of desserts that we were very tempted by, especially that we had the foretaste of the skills of their chef... and they looked absolutely yummy (some pictures of the desserts). We resisted the temptation, after all it was already after midnight... and we didn't want to "catch up" with all the calories we lost doing our situps session...